A:Potentially, yes. It is highly recommended to have a proper base that will ultimately have no movement. At least four inches of concrete with twelve inches of compacted stone base underneath the concrete is recommended.

A:The decking on a roof is typically not a structural component, it is the substrate used to attach the waterproofing product to. The structure of the roof is the rafters and/or wood trusses.

A:Lichen is a tree disease. You will likely find the moss on a very shaded roof. Cleaning the roof, using chemicals can actually cause more problems and deteriorate the shingles. As for ridding of the moss or Lichen, a hard bristle broom and water is really the only recommended treatment. Lichen is a combination of an algae and a fungus. It can be found growing on roofs, pavers, rock walls, gravestones, sidewalks, outdoor cushions and other outdoor surfaces. Lichen is an invasive organism and may appear on surfaces as tiny, shrubby branches (fruticose) leafy structures (foliose), or in crusty patches (crustose). Lichens thrive on a combination of sunlight, carbon dioxide, water, and minerals. Is it harmful? Should I remove it? While lichen may appear to be harmless it can cause significant damage to outdoor surfaces over time. Lichen holds moisture against the surface, speeding up wear and tear. This can shorten the life of your roof or other outdoor surfaces. This surface moisture may freeze in cold weather which can cause frost damage to asphalt shingles or other surfaces. As time goes on, your roof shingles may bend and warp. The lichen can penetrate your roof’s exterior causing the shingles to separate. This spells disaster for your roof! Removing lichen from your roof with chlorine bleach may seem like an economical solution but the end result may be corroded downspouts, gutters and flashings. Moss thrives in a damp, shady environment. For this reason it often occurs on the north side of a roof—since it receives the least amount of sun—or under overhanging trees that provide shade. Over time it can cause roofing to degrade. You can physically remove moss from your roof with a long-handled scrub brush if you’re careful not to overdo it. While a pressure washer can be used, the powerful jet of water could damage asphalt shingles. With either method, work down the roof to keep from lifting and breaking shingles. There are also several chemicals on the market specifically made to kill moss. Diluted bleach will work as well, though the runoff can damage plants. Be sure to wear rubber gloves, protective clothing, and eye protection when working with chemicals.

A:Mold can thrive anywhere there is moisture and organic material (like wood) that it uses as a 'food' source. That makes a basement an ideal haven. Encapsulation and dehumidification are the keys to getting rid of mold problems and their accompanying smells. Adding a SaniDry Sedona dehumidifier takes care of any remaining ambient moisture, which makes your basement inhospitable to mold.

A:You don't! The need to "air out" a basement to prevent moisture and mold is a common misconception. Adding a SaniDry Sedona dehumidifier will draw in any ambient moisture.

A:Insulating your basement is a great idea! Energy loss from a basement is a huge drain on your home's comfort, and your wallet. However, not all board insulation is created equal. Damp environments like basements need inorganic and waterproof insulation products to prevent mold and decay. Our SilverGlo insulation panels are both inorganic and waterproof and will keep your basement space from losing energy for your home.

A:Insulating your basement is a great idea! if your rim joist is not insulated you are probably losing money and comfort. Having the rim joist in your basement insulated with spray foam is a great way to keep your basement from losing energy for your home.

A:Many “dry” basements still need dehumidification because concrete is a porous material; it will absorb moisture from the soil and release that moisture to the interior of a basement or crawl space. If the soil around your house tends to be wet, the amount of moisture that diffuses into the basement may cause excessive humidity. When relative humidity in a basement or crawl space climbs above 60%, mold is likely to take hold.

A:Look for key features that make the dehumidifier easy to operate and maintain. For example, SaniDry™ Sadona dehumidifiers have easy-to-use digital controls. You set the target humidity level, and the SaniDry™ Sadona will operate automatically to maintain that level. You never have to empty a water reservoir with the SaniDry™ Sadona because it can drain into a sump pump or utilize a condensate pump for automatic drainage.

A:Once you've decided on a layout for your basement it's time to clear out the basement. Remove all items so that you have space to work on the ceilings, walls and floors. The walls will be framed first with electrical work being completed next. Insulating and wall covering material will be installed before the ceiling grids and lights are installed. It is not recommended to cover to the ceilings of the basement with drywall. This will cover the mechanical components of your home and you will surely need access to them at some point. Trim and flooring should be the next step in your basement finishing project. To complete the project the final electric and cleanup should happen to give you complete use of your new usable space.

A:You can use a low-cost dehumidifier, but it’s certain to cause problems. For starters, it will have much longer run times than a Basement Systems SaniDry™ Sadona dehumidifier, because of its undersized cooling coils. Energy consumption will be high, dehumidification capacity will be low, which means premature burnout is likely. Inexpensive consumer-grade dehumidifiers are designed to function at higher “upstairs” temperatures, not in the lower temperature range found in basements and crawl spaces. Another feature that makes SaniDry™ Sadona dehumidifiers better for basements is the dual air filter that traps mold spores, dust mite debris and other particulate pollutants.

A:Asbestos was one of the most common materials used to manufacture ceiling tiles during the mid-20th century. These minerals in asbestos are very thin and fibrous. Each fiber of asbestos that is visible to human eyes is comprised of millions of fibrils that are microscopic in size and can be released into the air when there is abrasion or other processes. Naturally occurring asbestos can be brown, blue, green or white in color. Its fire-resistant properties made it a popular material for many centuries. During the 19th century when asbestos was being used by builders and manufacturers due its desirable characteristics, which include good sound absorption, excellent tensile strength, affordability as a raw material and its amazing resistance to electricity, heat and fire. Asbestos fibers are virtually indestructible, and it is one of the best fire insulating materials in the world. It’s crucial that you be on the lookout for asbestos in older homes. Breathing in even a very small quantity of asbestos fibers can cause irreversible lung damage. Due to its superior properties, asbestos was very popular in making tile adhesives, ceiling tiles, duct wrap, dry wall and even ceiling texture sprays from the 1940s right up until the 1980s. Asbestos ceiling tiles reached the height of their popularity from the 1950s to the 1980s. When left undisturbed, asbestos ceiling tiles may not always be harmful. But when asbestos containing materials are moved or disturbed in any way, they can release toxic asbestos fibers into the air. Because many brands of ceiling tiles have a similar look and size, it can often be difficult to accurately identify whether ceiling tiles contain asbestos or not. Asbestos was used in many different styles of ceiling tiles in suspended ceilings and was a very common material in the tile insulation as well as the paper on the underside of tiles. Additionally, asbestos was used in the adhesive materials which bound the sections of the tiles together. As a general rule of thumb, if you encounter ceiling tiles in an older building that have a similar appearance to those of photos of asbestos ceiling tiles, you should get them tested immediately. If the test shows that there is asbestos present, then you must either: completely seal the entire area off so no one can access it even by accident or have a professional contractor who specializes in handling the material remove it safely. Because asbestos fibers can be released into the atmosphere when disturbed, in many cases it is much safer to leave the area undisturbed than to try to remove the asbestos containing material. You can find specialist asbestos removal companies in most major cities. These companies will have the necessary equipment and training to remove asbestos products from your property.

A:It depends on the layout of the bathroom. In a small powder room the accent wall would be either the wall directly across from the door or behind the toilet. In a larger space, it depends on the placement of the shower. It would be recommended that if you are adding an accent wall in a larger bathroom to seek the opinion of a design professional.

A:Marshall Exteriors, LLC is a Betterliving Sunroom Dealer and have factory trained installers to get your room properly constructed. When it comes to adding a sunroom it's important to know that all sunrooms are not made alike. Betterliving sunrooms have been made right here in USA since 1964. These sunrooms have evolved to perfectly defend your investment against the Upstate NY weather allowing you to enjoy them for many years. Marshall Exteriors, LLC Estimators are thoroughly trained in all the Betterliving products and have the know how to address your needs.